British summers have a habit of being either too wet or too dry, and often both in the same month. A border that looked lush in June can be flagging by mid-July, with asters dropping their lower leaves and phlox sulking in dry shade. Mulching is the simplest, cheapest insurance against that. A generous layer of organic matter slows evaporation from the soil surface, keeps the root zone cooler during a heatwave, and smothers the annual weeds that would otherwise compete for every drop of water left. It also feeds the soil as it breaks down, improving structure so that over a few seasons your border holds moisture far better than it did before.
If you do nothing else this summer, mulch your borders after the next decent rain. That single afternoon's work will buy you weeks of grace in August.
The best mulch is the one you can get hold of locally and afford in bulk. For most herbaceous borders, a well-rotted garden compost or leafmould is hard to beat, because it feeds as well as protects. Composted bark is longer lasting and looks tidy around shrubs. A few points worth remembering:
Mulch spread on bone-dry soil can do more harm than good. A thick layer over dusty ground simply sheds water at the edges and keeps the dry soil underneath dry. Before you start, push a trowel in. If the top 10cm or so is damp, carry on. If it is powder dry, water the border thoroughly first, let it settle overnight, then mulch the following morning.
This is why rain is the trigger. Straight after a good soaking, the soil is charged with moisture and the mulch locks it in. Two or three centimetres of rain is ideal. If a dry spell is forecast and no rain appears, water deeply once, then mulch the next day rather than waiting indefinitely.
Depth matters, and so does placement. In an established border, 5–7cm of organic mulch is plenty. Around shrubs and roses you can go to 7–10cm, but around low-growing perennials such as hardy geraniums, heucheras and young asters, keep it to 2–3cm.
The single most important rule is to keep mulch clear of stems and crowns. Leave a gap of roughly 8–10cm around each plant, and never bury the point where stems meet roots. Crown rot is a real risk in a damp British autumn, and asters, penstemons and lupins are especially vulnerable. Push the mulch back with your hands as you work, and never pile it against the trunks of trees or shrubs.
Mulch is not purely functional. A dark, even layer of composted bark sets off copper-toned foliage beautifully, and gives the border a calm, settled look in the weeks before the asters open. Physocarpus opulifolius 'Diabolo', Cotinus 'Grace', bronze fennel and Heuchera 'Caramel' or 'Peach Flambe' all glow against a rich brown surface. Come September, the purple and lilac of Michaelmas daisies, Symphyotrichum novi-belgii and S. novae-angliae, sits perfectly against that backdrop.
Asters are thirsty plants and prone to powdery mildew when stressed, so mulch generously and water at the base rather than over the foliage. A damp root run and dry leaves is exactly what they want. Where space allows, pair them with sedums, heleniums and ornamental grasses for a border that carries colour from late summer right through to the first frosts.
Mulching is not a one-off task. A few simple habits will keep the border in good order for the rest of the season:
Do this well and your borders will sail through the hottest fortnight the summer can throw at them, with the soil beneath still cool, dark and full of worms.
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